
BRAZING AND 
SOLDERING 




BV JAMKS r HOHAKT 



IJEINU 
NTMBEK 




SKKIF.S (»F 



PRACTICAL 
PAPERS 



prBLlsHED BY 








NKW YORK 






LIBRItRV of CONGRESS 

Two Copits Rtcelved 

SEP 19 1906 

f» Csoyright Efltry 
CLASJj A XXc, Ne. 
COPY B/i 



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7 



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Brazing and 
Soldering 

1$Y JAMES F. HObAKT 
T T ▼ 

Brazing. 

Soldering and brazing^ are terms often used to de- 
note the same operation, that of joining similar or dis- 
similar metals by means of molten metal which may be 
of the same kind, but which usually has a lower melting 
])oint than the metals to be joined. The term "brazing" 
is usually employed to denote the soldering with an allov 
of copper or zinc. "Soldering" is usually taken to repre- 
sent the joining of surfaces b\- means of an alloy of lead 
and tin. and "hard-soldering" is understood to mean the 
l)rocess of uniting as above described with silver and its 
alloys used as a uniting metal. Hard soldering and braz- 
ing are practically the same, and are botli done in about 
the same way. 

The theory of brazing is the melting of a low fusing 
metal against the metals to be united while they are in 
such a condition of cleanliness and temperature that the 
metal welds itself to them. Soft brass, when melted, will 
weld itself to iron, copper, and a number of other metals, 
while the temperature of the metals in question is at a con- 
siderable number of degrees below their several melting 
I)oints. In fact, only heat enough need by employed to 
fairly melt the uniting metal and to render it fluid enough 
to flow, or to "run." as the mechanic aptly states it. 

To braze, also to solder, it is absolutely necessary that 
the surfaces to be united are clean and free from oxide. 

I 

Copyright 1906, Tho Derry-Cullard On. 



Brazing. 

The term "clean"" is used in brazing" and soldering, to 
mean that there is no "matter in the wrong place" as far 
as the surfaces to be operated upon are concerned. If the 
surfaces should be covered with a mixture of plumbago 
and soap, it is pretty sure that the brass would not adhere, 
and they could be called "dirty." If. on the contrary, the 
surfaces were daubed with grease, resin, lime, borax or 
similar substances, the brazing will not be interfered with ; 
hence, it is better to say that surfaces to be brazed or 
soldered, should be made bright and free from oxide, 
finger marks, and all other matter except the proper flux 
to prevent oxidization of the surfaces when heated. This, 
and this alone, is the purpose of all the fluxes used either 
in soldering, brazing or welding. The flux prevents ox- 
idization from contact of the hot metal with the air, or 
with the gases from the fuel used in heating. 

Aside from the proper cleaning and fluxing of metals 
to be brazed or soldered, it is necessary that they be fitted 
together as closely as possible. It may seem like a par- 
adox, but is the truth never the less, that when surfaces 
are united b}' brazing, the union is stronger the less brass 
there is between the surfaces. That is : The closer the fit- 
ting of the parts, the stronger will the braze be after com- 
pletion. It is imnecessary to "leave space for the brass," 
in fitting for a brazed joint. The penetrating power of 
melted brass may be demonstrated by drilling a hole in a 
piece of iron or steel. Drive a plug in the drilled hole, and 
force it in as tightly as possible, then rivet the ends of the 
plug and proceed to braze around one end of it, when it 
will be found upon test, that no matter how tightly the 
plug may have been driven in, the melted brass has found 
its way through the plate beside and around the riveted 
plug, and that it has brazed both ends of the plug and its 



Brazinj 



entire length as well. Therefore, fit tight, for hrazing, 
and trust the li(|ui<l brass to find its wav through the 
entire joint without fail. 

Borax is the fiux usually employed for all kinds of 
brazing, l-'or commercial work on a large scale, boracic 
acid is used as it is cheaper than borax, being purchased 
in a granular form, in bulk, by the keg or barrel. For 
the tiniting metal, some alloy of copper and zinc is uni- 
versally employed. When other substances, such as silver 
is used, the operation becomes known as "hard soldering." 
as described elsewhere. 

The particular alloy used for brazing, is called "spel- 
ter,"' and consists of equal parts of copper and zinc. For 
dififerent operations it is necessary to use either a harder 
or softer alloy, hence the proportions of metals vary in the 
alloy according to the following table : 



Brazing Alloys, Tin. i Copper. 


Zinc. jAntimony 


Hardest, 
Hard (spelter) 
Soft, 
Softest, 


o ! 3 

I 

1 4 

2 i O 


I O 
I ■ O 

3 o 

O I 



In a number of dictionaries, the projjer metal for 
brazing is given as "Fine lirass. one part : Zinc, one ])art." 
This means that the copper in the brass receives another 
portion of zinc, thus making the alloy softer and lowering 
the melting point. 

In commercial brazing, it is frequently profitable to 
mix the spelter with the proper proportion of boracic acid 
as found by experiment to be necessary. Then, the mix- 
ture is placed over or tipon the parts to be brazed, and 
subjected to heat sufficient to melt the brass. As soon as 
the brass is seen to flow, "run," the workman calls it, the 



Brazing. 

article is removed from the fire and the surface — if it will 
allow^is rubbed or scraped with a piece of metal or with 
a scratch brush to remove the flux and a portion of the 
superfluous brass. In many cases the scraping can not be 
permitted owing" to the nature of the work, but whenever 
possible, it should be done as the flux comes off much 
easier when hot than after it gets cold. 

The manner of applying the spelter and borax also 
differs with the work to be done.. When a plain ring is to 
be brazed, it is sufficient to hang the ring on the end of a 
wire or a rod of iron and place a bit of spelter and borax 
inside the ring which has been placed so that the part 
to be brazed is downward. Usually the spelter and borax 
can be deposited in some angle of the work, or, upon 
some flat surface which will keep it in place during the 
heating operation. Sometimes, however, this is impos- 
sible, as in brazing a wire. In such cases, select a bit of 
spelter which is long enough to bend up U-shaped so it 
could be hung over the wire. The borax can readily be 
made to adhere by warming the wire. 

It is best to heat rather slowly, in order that the joint 
may be brought to a dull red heat without burning any 
portion, or without any ])art remaining too cold. When 
the heat is forced so that one portion of the metal is hot 
enough to melt the spelter that happens to be on it, while 
another part of the joint is below the melting part of 
spelter, there is little possibility of securing a perfect 
joint. Heating evenly is absolutely necessary. It must 
be insisted upon or there will be no good work done in 
brazing. 

Brazing can be done with any source of heat which 
will melt the spelter, but a properly arranged gas flame 
is the best that can be provided. The writer has more 

4 



Brazing. 

than once done work in an excellent manner in a ])ile of 
coals in an oi)en fireplace with the hand-hellows as a 
sonrce of air pressnre. Indeed, upon one occasion, in a 
hunter's camp, a hatchet, split throuj^h the poll to the 
very eye. was successfully hrazed with a bit of soft brass 
wire used for snaring' fish. The fiux was a bit of borax 
from the medicine chest, and the brass melting fire was a 
kettle full of coals set just inside the camp door and 
banked with wet clay to approximate a smith's forge. The 
necessary blast was supplied by a cone of birch bark, the 
large end of which was daubed with clay tightly into a 
hole in the wall of the cam]). The small end of the cone 
led into a little clay passage which conducted the wind 
pressure into the bed of coals. No better working outfit 
could be desired for the limited work to be done. 

When a smith's forge is to be used for brazing, use 
a charcoal fire, if possible. If bituminous coal must be 
used, coke enough of it to do the work, as the sulphur in 
the soft coal is not conducive to good brazing any more 
than it is to good welding, although a fair job of brazing 
may be done in an ordinary green coal fire by letting the 
coal remain without stirring while the brazing is being 
done. 

If the work permits of being re-idily handled, make a 
sort of pit or crater in the pile of coal on the forge, and 
blew a few minutes until all the visible .smoke and gas has 
ceased. Then lower the work carefully into the crater 
and blow very lightly, taking care that the spelter is in. 
jilace and that it is not crowded away by the melting of the 
borax. Heat slowly and evenly, allowing the fire to lie 
without blast for short intervals. This permits the work 
to "soak" in the heat, as it is called by the workmen, re- 
sulting in verv even heating of the work. 



Brazing. 

The workman should have at hand a small pointed 
rod or wire^ with which to poke into place any bit of 
spelter which may shift its position and at the instant of 
melting", the spelter may be made to flow quickly and in 
the direction desired, by pressing the bits of spelter, one 
at a time, against the hot surface of the work. A row or 
group of spelter granules seem a good deal like sheep. 
Let one start to run, and all the others quickly follow. A 
bit of spelter forced against the hot metal receives its heat 
much quicker than when lying loose, and, as soon as one 
particle melts, it flows around the others, permitting them 
to receive heat and melt very quickly, hence the seeming 
following in the leadership of the first granule to melt. 
The work can be brazed at a considerable lower heat if a 
little care is taken to start the spelter a-flowing, as above 
noted. 

In brazing in the smith's forge, it is well to hold the 
work "high up," that is, do not let it rest on the coal, but 
keep it suspended between the banks of incandescent fuel 
so that heat must reach all parts by radiation instead of a 
part by convection, as would be the case were the work 
to rest directly against the hot coals. When large work is 
to be handled, of course the above will not apply, and 
direct contact with the coal of the part to be brazed must 
be prevented by the work being supported at other places, 
leaving the working portion free and clear. 

When considerable brazing is to be done, build a 
special furnace for that work alone, and, if possible, do 
the heating with gas. A blast of air will be necessary but 
a very small blower, similar to that used for a portable 
forge, will do all that is required. The diagram contained 
in Fig. i, shows plainly the construction of a small home- 
made furnace for brazing. This furnace may be built up 

6 



I 



Brazing. 



Brick Wall 



t Finj Proof Brick 



O 

Iron 
Plate 



Wooden Bench 



^ 



Gas 



tn 



^ 



Brick Wall 



Gas 



Air 



Brick Wa I 



.4§aQ 



Air 



rnej!rMy- Co//arci Co, '^/ 



"B? 







Fig. I. Home made brazing furnace. 
7 



Brazing. 

on a bench with loose bricks, or it may be constructed in a 
more permanent manner, using- an iron sheh with fire brick 
hning; instead of loose bricks. 

For bench use. there is an insulating- laver of bricks 
laid upon the wood, then an iron plate and then the brick 
walls of the furnace are laid up. It is only necessary that 
the bricks are sufficient to hold the flame around the work 
to be brazed. There is a radiation or reflection of heat 
from a hot incandescent surface of brick or other material, 
like charcoal or carbon, which greatly aids in heating the 
object to be brazed. In fact, it is often impossible to 
braze certain work with the furnace at hand, until some- 
thing- has been placed around the work to keep the heat 
where it is needed — hence the use of the confined space in 
a brazing- furnace, instead of letting the flame play directly 
against the work, in the open. 

In Fig. r. the arrangement of the gas and air pipes is 
shown. It is necessary that the air should be delivered 
inside of the jet of gas. as the air thus supplied inside the 
gas. together with the supply of air outside the jet. enables 
a much better and hotter flame to be maintained than 
when the air is delivered wholly around the gas instead of 
inside it. In the sketch, the two jets are shown con- 
trolled b}' a single valve, each for the air and the gas. 
Should there be trouble in obtaining the best results 
with either burner, it can be cured by putting a valve in 
each of the four pipes leading to the burners. Then it 
will be possible to adjust separately, the gas and air supply 
to each burner. 

The entire piping may be made up of standard fit- 
tings, as shown by Fig. i, or special castings and forgings 
niay be provided, as desired. The size of the furnace may 
be made sufiicient to take in the usual work to be brazed. 



Brazinf 



vcloped in the g-asoline flame to make a considerable braze. 
All that is necessary, is to put the heat just where it is 
needed, and to Imld it there. This is best done ])\- l)uild- 
ino- around the work with charcoal which becomes incan- 
descent from the heat of the i^asoline tlanie. and also sets 
up a heatini^' scheme from its own combustion. 

If the article to be brazed, be a very small one, it can 
be placed bodily in a hole scooped in a bit of charcoal, as 




Fig. 3. Brazing in charcoal block. 

shown by Fig;. 3. Here is shown the brazing' of a link in 
a small chain. The broken link is carefully wedg^ed into 
the hole in the charcoal, and bits of coal may be packed 
around the link if the latter be comparatively large. The 
place where the link is to be brazed, is indicated at a. and 
the heat is applied from the torch b, which, of course, is 
applied at the most convenient angle. 

Another very convenient method of applying" char- 
coal in the brazing operation, is shown by Fig. 4. Here, 
the work is held between two pieces of hard charcoal 



Brazing. 

ing the operation. Thus : Free acid causes the joint to 
"rust out" — something which is fatal to good or lasting 
work. 

The apparatus described above is applicable for braz- 








\. 



T/re ^frry Cc//ajU Cc 4/ 

Fig. 2. Gasoline torch. 



ing heavy work. For light brazing, a simple gasoline 
torch may be used, as shown by Fig. 2. This appliance 
gives a very strong flame, but if it be directed upon a piece 
of iron for an entire day, there would not be sufficient heat 
to make jnuch of a piece of iron red-hot, to say nothing of 
melting the spelter. However, there is heat enough de- 



Brazing. 

bearing- in mind that the smaller the furnace, the less gas 
will be required, and the more limited the work that can 
be done. On the other hand, while the large furnace 
costs more than the small one. and more i)i])ing and more 
gas is required to ])ro])erl\ heat the apparatus, there is 
always the possibility of filling the large furnace with 
bricks to fit it to small work and the gas can always be 
cut down to tit the furnace by means of the valves pro- 
vided for that purpose. It is in order, then, to provide as 
large a furnace as there is likelihood of there being work 
for, then fill up the fire-pot with fire bricks until economy 
of gas is secured for the particular work to he done. Then, 
when a large piece of work comes along, take out the 
bricks, and a large furnace is at hand. The above re- 
marks, of cotirse. apply to job and re])air work. For 
special manufacturing where the same work is to be done 
day after day, there will, of course, be provided special 
brazing furnaces, fitted for the particular work in hand. 

Cleaning work which is to be brazed, is a most im- 
portant part of the operation. Usually, filing, scraping or 
grinding must be resorted to. Cleaning by means of acid 
is sometimes attempted, but this method sometimes proves 
very far from being satisfactory. If the surfaces are not 
thoroughly cleaned of grease by the use of strong alkali, 
the acid will fail to make the entire stirface bright, and a 
poor braze will be the result. Again, if the acid be not 
entirely removed at the time of cleaning the surfaces, then 
there will be more trouble, for the acid remaining on the. 
metal will proceed to imite with it into a film of oxide 
which will not only prevent a perfect braze, but which will 
probably cause an apparently perfect union to fall apart as 
the acid left in the metal gets in its work of undermining" 
the layer of brass which has been ])ut u])on the work dur- 



Brazing. 

which are clamped firmly upon the work. If the coal is 
in the way at first, the flame from the torch will quickly 
burn away the interfering parts. Two or more pieces of 
metal can be held firmly for brazing by this method, and 
the charcoal is also brought very close to the point of 
heating-. 




Fig. 4. Another way of using charcoal. 

A very excellent device for brazing in a shop where 
there is considerable work, but no gas to do it with, con- 
sists of a pair of torch burners attached to a compressed 
air reservoir of considerable size, as indicated by Fig. 5. 
The action of this tool is the same as for the torch ; it is 
pumped up after some gasoline has been put into the air- 
tank, then the burners are heated and ignited in the usual 
way, the necessary air pressure being pumped up in the 
tank by means of an ordinary bicycle pump — if no better 
way be rigged in the shop. 

Pieces of fire brick, laid on either side of the path of 



Brazing. 

the flames will confine them a great deal and if pieces of 
charcoal be placed inside of the bricks, a very high degree 
of heat can be obtained. Each torch-head is so arranged 
that it can be swivelled in any direction. If both torches 
l)e turned so they point nearly in the same direction, the 





Fig. s. A good brazing device. 

flame from the two torches will form a sort of \', and at 
the point where the flames come together, is a very hot 
place. \\\\.\\ a backing of fire brick and charcoal as above 
described, iron may almost be melted with this appliance. 
Blow-])ipe brazing is done in exactly the same man- 



13 



Brazing. 

ner as described for blow-torch work, only, as large work 
cannot be attempted as with the torch, simply for the 
reason that there is not as much heat developed with the 
small blow-pipe, as with the larger blow-torch. The in- 
tensity of the flame, however, is as great, and even much 
greater with the little blow^-pipe than with the largest torch 
ever made. 

There is an excellent tool for soldering and small 
brazing, which consists of two tubes, one for illuminating 
or hydrogen gas, the other tube for compressed air. These 
tubes are attached to flexible rubber tubes as shown by 
Fig. 6, one leading to the gas fixture, the other to a source 




Q\ Air _ 

\,,J\^ ~e Deny Cc//ciid Co. A//. 



Fig. 6. A handy blow pipe. 



of compressed air. On small work the air-tube is often 
held in the mouth and the air supplied by the operator. 
This blow-pipe may be attached to, and used in connection 
with the apparatus shown by Fig. 5. For work larger 
than the double blow-torch can handle, the air-gas blow- 
pipe will be found a very welcome addition to the source 
of heat. 

Fig. 7 illustrates two types of blow-pipes ordinarily 
used. The ball on one of them, is hollow, and is supposed 
to render the flame a little hotter by catching the moisture 

14 



Brazing. 

that may he imparted to the air hy heing- hlown through 
the hmo-s and mouth. The chief benefit to be derived 
from the l^aU, is in catching wliatever portions of saliva 
are I)lown into the tube with the air. The plain blow- 
l)ipc dispenses with the moisture catching device, and 
some of the best work is done with this kind of a blow- 
pipe. 

Fig. 8 shcnvs the manner of blow-pipe application to 
a small job of brazing. The work is held in a pair of 




Fig. 7. Two small blow pipes. 



tongs or pliers, between pieces of hard charcoal, and the 
flame of the alcohol lamp is diverged as shown, bv the 
stream of air from the blow-pipe nozzle. For small braz- 
ing jobs, also for hard soldering, and for many kinds of 
soft-soldering, this a])i)aratus is of inestimable value to the 
mechanic. The lamp is made with a spherical alcohol 
reservoir, which forms the body of the lamp, and it swings 
in any direction, in the metal base of the lamp. The flame 
may, therefore, be put in any position within the capacity 
of the lamp. 

15 



Brazing. 

There has recently developed two new methods of 
brazing, which for manufacturing purposes, throw in the 
shade, all methods known before the advent of the two 
methods in question, one of which is known as "Brazing 
by Immersion," and consists of dipping the article to 




Fig. 8 How small blow pipe 
is used 



be brazed, into a bath of melted spelter, on top of which 
is maintained a body of molten flux, through which the 
articles to be brazed have first to be passed. Fig. 9 shows 
one form of crucible or melting pot used to contain the 
fluid flux and spelter. Common round crucibles are also 
used, the only necessity being that the containing vessel 
must be large enough, and the melted metal high enough 

16 



Brazing. 

to allow of the parts to be brazed beiiii;- immersed suf- 
ficiently to bring- tliem entirely beneath the surface of the 
hot spelter. When the pot shown by Fio-. q is used, larp^e 
work is to be handled, therefore ])rovisi()n is made for a 
considerable body of molten metal, hence the long-, flat 
pot. into which can be di])ped almost any portion of an 
object which is not absolutely flat and longer than the ]jot. 
The position of the work in the pot is pretty well 
shown by Fig. lo. The pot is shown upon a bed of coals, 
but it would be better if it were heated bv a gas furnace. 




Hig. 9 Special crucible for immersion 



On top of the metal is the body of flux. a. in a molten 
state. The body of spelter, b, underneath the flux is also 
kept in a melted state, and when the object to be brazed 
is first introduced, it is held in the hot flux for a short 
time before it is put down into the spelter. The object 
of holding the w'ork a while in the flux is two-fold. Xot 
only is the object heated. l)ut it is coated with a layer of 
flux which prevents oxidation. When thoroughly heated 
and coated with flux, the work is passed down into the 
spelter, which immediately attaches itself to the work, 



Brazing. 

coating every part thereof and insinuating itself into 
every crack and corner. Between surfaces, capillary at- 
traction fills all the space and makes a solid filling after 
the work has cooled. 

In this kind of brazing, parts of the work which must 
not be adhered to by the spelter, are covered with graphite 
specially prepared for the purpose in such a manner that 
the brass will never adhere where the "anti-flux" graphite 
has been applied. This substance is made up into a paste 




^r 7^ ne Jerry - Cci/o'd Cn Af/ 

Fig. lo. Using a round crucible. 



and applied with a brush to parts which nuist not be 
covered by the spelter. The graphite is not afifected by 
the intense heat of the spelter, and if care is used in paint- 
ing on the graphite, little or no filing will be necessary 
after the brazing operation has been finished. 

The proper flux to use with one of these furnaces, is. 
pretty hard to determine. Some operators use pure borax, 
and keep it from three-eighths of an inch, to over twO' 

iS 



Brazing. 

inches deep on top of the s])eUer, wliile other i)eo|)le who 
<lo excellent brazini^-. use three parts boracic acid and one 
])art borax, while others use exactly the opposite propor- 
tion of borax and acid. Other people use boracic acid 
straight, without anything- else with it. Again, some use 
soda mixed with borax, and, in fact, almost any com- 
pound which has l)orax in it, seems to work well as a flux 
in the tli])ping- process of brazing. 

The other method (^f brazing", alluded to above, as 
being a great advance in the process of brazing, is known 
as the "Pich Process of Brazing Cast Iron." Cast iron 
can be brazed by the methods described above, but it is 
very delicate business, as the iron melts, or at least softens 
so it will break under the least strain, at a temperature 
pretty near that at wdiich the spelter melts, so that it is 
almost impossible to melt the brass without "burning" up 
the cast iron which is being brazed. 

By the Pich method, the surfaces to be brazed are 
first brushed over w^ith a varnish made of oxide of copper 
mixed with any liquid which will allow^ of the copj^er being 
spread with a brush, and which will afterwards hold the 
oxide w^hen dry. 

After this application, the brazing is carried out the 
same as in the ordinary method. The brass or spelter 
is placed in position, and the flux applied, then a gas-air 
flame is a])plied as in ordinary brazing. It is assumed 
that the metallic oxide acts as a reducer on the surface of 
the cast iron to be brazed. Without the oxide, the carbon 
above noted acts much like the graphite used in the 
dipping method of brazing as an anti-flux as described in 
the description of the dipping process of brazing. It is 
claimed that the metallic oxide is reduced, removing dur- 
ing the process of reduction, the carbon on the surface of 

19 



Sold 



erinj 



the metal, and. it is claimed, often penetrating- for a 
distance of three or four inches into the metal itself, 
thereby making the cast iron stronger at and near the 
joint, than it was before. Of this matter, the writer has 
no personal knowledge. The process has been described 
very fully in a paper by Wilifred Lewis, read before the 
American Society of Mechanical Engineers. 

It is claimed that both the joint and the casting 
itself is made from 5% to 10% stronger by the treatment 
with oxide. This, if correct, is a pointer of value to the 
iron worker, aside from in the process of brazing, for. if 
in certain cases, cast iron can have its strength increased 
10%, it will be of inestimable value to the designing 
engineer to know thereof. 



Sold 



enn 



g- 



Soldering is much like brazing in some of its details. 
In fact, some kinds of soldering are done exactly like some 
kinds of brazing, but other varieties of soldering are 
totally unlike any brazing operations. Soldering, there- 
fore, may be taken to mean the uniting of two or more 
pieces of metal, with fusible alloys of lead and tin. Some- 
times, lead areas are united by melting their surfaces 
without the use of solder, the surfaces being fluxed. This 
form of soldering differs slightly from welding, and is 
called "burning" by the trade. The method is usually em- 
ployed in uniting the edges of sheets of lead used in the 
lining of acid tanks or similar apparatus. 

The particular kind of soldering usually employed 
is by the use of the so-called "soldering iron," which is 
really a copper bit placed on the end of an iron handle. 



Soldering. 

An alloy of lead and tin is used which readily adheres 
to the surface of the bit, which must be clean, free from 
oxide, etc. The operation of coating" a copper liit with 
solder is known as "tinnin,t;'," and will be described else- 
where. The theory of soft solderin<:j is : that as the soft 
metal adheres to. and unites with the surface of the coi)per 
bit, so will the soft metal, under certain conditions, ad- 





3^ 



-arO 




/ fie Detry- Co/Zard Co. /^ 
Figs. II and 12. Forms of soldering "irons." 

here to, and unite with the surface of the metals to be 
soldered. In fact, soft soldering, as well as brazing, con- 
sists of welding together two or more pieces of similar 
or dissimilar metals by means of another metal of lower 
melting point. That constitutes soldering : all the rest of 
the operation, is detail, which may be varied to suit con- 
ditions. 

The form of copper bit usually employed, is shown by 



Sold 



erinj 



Fig. II, herewith. There are also many other shapes in 
common use, and those represented by a, b, c and d. in 
Fig. II. are frequently seen. In the latter illustration, a 
is the "hatchet" bit. used perhaps more frequently than 
any of the others, except that shown by Fig. ii, which 
is the tool with which nearly all jobbing and repairing 
is done. The "hatchet" form of bit is also shown bv b, 
Fig. 12. and differs only that the handle is swivelled so 
that the edge of the bit may be turned in any direction 
as made necessary by the work in hand. This tool is used 
for long, straight seams, and for heavy work generally. 
The bit shown at c, is one of the many shapes used for 
special work. Tools of any shape can be easily made by 
the workman who simply forges the copper when cold, to 
the size and shape desired. Copper forges on the anvil 
pretty well and if the precaution be taken to anneal the 
bit frequently, almost any desired shape can be made with 
little if any fihng or cutting — simply by forging alone. 
The annealing operation for copper, consists of heating to 
a dull red heat, and then quenching in water — the reverse 
of the steel hardening operation. 

The shape shown by C, is a ver\- useful tool where 
soldering has to be done in corners or small places. It is 
of the same shape as form A, except that it is smaller, and 
round in section, instead of "hex." The handle is screwed 
into the bit, and three holes are drilled and tapped so that 
the handle can be put in as shown, or with the flat end 
either "hatchet," or "cross," as the work to be done may 
demand. The swivel hatchet bit, B. is one of the most 
useful tools. It ranks next to form A. Fitted with the 
two tools. Fig. II, and B, Fig. 12, all kinds of large 
work can be done. With the addition of C, the stock is 
complete. 



Soldering. 

Even inoro important than the shape of the bits, is 
their concHtion. A man can do good work with any 
"plug" of a tool, as long as it is cleaned and well tinned. 
It is in this, that the life of the tool lies. With a poorly 
tinned tool, it is impossible to do good soldering. It is 
then, of the greatest importance that the user of soldering 
tools knows how to put them in shape and how to keep 
them there. To begin with, a bit can never remain in 




Fig. 13, Brick "jig" for tinning copper. 



good condition if it is over-heated. Once a bit is made 
red-hot, its usefulness is gone until it has been re-tinned. 
Heating in a soft coal fire also causes the tinning to vanish 
very quickly. 

In order to learn how best to keep a bit well tinned,, 
it is necessary to learn how to tin the bit the first time. 
Renewing the tinning is practically the same as the first 
tinning. To tin a copper, see that it is of the shape re- 
quired, then brighten the sides and edges of the point 

23 



Ot^ 



Soldering. 

with a file. Heat the hit until it is barely hot enough to 
melt a little metal oft' a stick of solder when pressed 
against a bar of that alloy. If the bit is too hot, the tin 
cannot be made to adhere to it. Cool the bit on a wet 
rag-, if it should be heated too hot. but, the sooner the 
beginner learns to "never let the coppers get too hot," the 
sooner he will be an expert at soldering. 

Perhaps the best "jig" for tinning coppers, is a brick 
with the top cut out with a cold chisel, something as 
shown by Fig. 13. The softer the brick, the better "jig" 
it will make. A very hard burned brick will not let the 
copper rub off little bits, while a soft, ])ale yellow brick 




Fig. 14 A handy scraper. 

rubs off like sand and the material thus removed, unites 
with the resin used in the operation, and helps to brighten 
the surface of the copper. 

The cavity in the top surface of the brick may be 
made about an eighth of an inch deep, and some resin 
melted into it. Some pieces of salammoniac, scattered in 
with the resin, improves the working of the "jig" im- 
mensely. In fact, that substance is the natural flux for 
copper, and that metal may be soldered with no other 
flux except a little of the muriate of ammonia as the 
chemical in question is technically known. Some solder 
is melted into the cavity on top of the brick, and there 
mingles with the other material. The heated copper 

24 



Soldering. 

should be rubbed baek and forth on the Ijrick. amid the 
niehed solder and Hux. The ])articles of ])rick serve to 
brighten the copper so that the solder readily adheres, 
covering" the entire point of the bit. as far back as it may 
have been brightened, or rulibed against the surface of 
the brick. 

In using" the copper give it a rub or two on the brick 
just before replacing" to hcxt. and the co]iper will always 
keep well tinned. If, at any time, through over-heating 
or soldering dirt\ surfaces, the tinning" begins to disap- 
pear, a few rubs on the brick will replace the tinning as 
good as new. \\ hen several coppers are in use, they are 
usuallv tinned bv rul)bing two bits together, taking one 
with either hand, and rubl)ing" them together on the brick. 
Then, the brick brightens the coppers and the rubbing 
of the two together, causes the molten metal to adhere 
verv quicklv. Coppers may be tinned in many other ways. 
Simply rubbing the bit on the ground, or on the tioor of 
the shop will brighten the metal, and the tinning may be 
proceeded with on a bit of tin. with nothing but resin and 
solder. But the brick "jig" is much the best — and (piick- 
est. 

Overheating causes the copper to beconie rough and 
worn in spots. Tt often seems as if an acid had eaten into 
the copper in one or more places, but overheating is the 
sole cause of the trouble. Learn to judge cpiickly and 
correctly the degree of heat in the copper by holding the 
bit about one inch from the cheek. The radiation of heat 
is quickly felt, and in a very short time a man can learn 
in this way, to closely judge the amount of heat in the 
copper. The right heat has been attained when the solder 
flows like water when melted with the copjier, on a bit of 
bright new tin ]date. If the solder can be made to build 



Soldering. 

or pile up in the least, the copper is too cold. If color 
shows on that portion of the copper which is covered with 
solder, then the bit is too hot. There is quite a range of 
temperature between the two extremes, and there all the 
work of soldering should be done. 

Never try to solder when the tool is so cold that the 
solder will not run freely. Good work cannot be done 
with the copper in that condition. Heat when the solder 
shows the least trace of granular formation, and when it 
begins to "build up" under the copper, from the surface 
of the metal which is being soldered. If the tool be a trifle 
too hot, push it along the top of the brick "jig" a few 
times and the heat will be reduced and the tinning on the 
copper will be improved by the operation. 

In soldering, the same rules apply regarding cleanli- 
ness, as in brazing. The surface must be free from dirt, 
oxide, or any foreign substance which will prevent the 
adherence of the solder. On old work, the surfaces must 
be brightened by scraping, filing or rubbing with sand- 
paper or emery cloth. Scraping is the best, and a useful 
tool for the purpose is shown by Fig. 14. This scraper 
may be bought from the same dealer who supplies solder- 
ing tools and supplies. This tool has a steel blade, which 
should be hardened and should be ground on the side not 
shown in the drawing. The corners of this tool are dififer- 
ent from each other, one being pointed, the others rounded 
off on different radii. 

Where scraping can not be done to advantage, filing 
anay be resorted to ; grinding may be done ; emerv cloth 
used, or the surface scraped bright with the blade of a 
knife. The scratch-brush may also be used, but the sur- 
faces must be cleaned of oxide in some manner at any 
cost, or no good soldering can be done. 

26 



Sold 



en 



"g- 



For all small work, the solder should be applied to 
the copper, instead of direct to the work. Fig". 15, illus- 
trates the proper method of picking- up solder with the bit. 
A bar of "half and half" is laid on the bench, one end 
being raised a trifle by having a bit of wood, a cold 
chisel, or some other small article placed under it. Touch 
the hot copper to the bar of solder, and a portion will melt 
and adhere to the copper. If the tool be held against the 




Fig. 16. Taking solder from bar. 



solder too long, the solder will run down uj)on the bench. 
Only a very small portion of the metal can be taken up 
at one time, but the larger the copper, and the tinned 
portion of it. the more solder can be taken up at a time. 
Carry the solder thus taken up to the place to be soldered, 
and. if the surfaces have been properly cleaned and 
fluxed, the solder will adhere to and run over them like 
water. 

\\'hen verv large surfaces have to be soldered, as in 
running' seams in a tin roof, it is necessary to melt the 
solder on the top of the bit as that tool is moved along the 

27 



Soldering. 

seam. When solderino; heavy lead pipe, it is necessary 
to feed the solder in the same manner, but for all light 
work, pick up the solder in the manner described above. 
If the copper will not readily pick uj) the solder, rest as- 
sured that the tool is not in condition to do good work, 
and should be sent at once to the tinning brick. 

Heavy soldering can be done to advantage with both 
the soldering copper and the gasoline torch shown by 
Fig. 2 in the brazing chapter. For jobbing, or for small 
work, the copper may easily be heated by one of these 
convenient sources of heat. All that is necessary is to 
place the tool so that the flame will strike against the 
copper bit. which may be merely balanced on top of the 
torch, upon lugs made for that purpose on the torches 
of the most recent make. For heavy soldering ( occasional 
work), especiallv where large pieces are to be united, 
place the torch, with the copper on top, so that the flame 
will impringe upon the work after it has passed the cop- 
per bit. Then, after the copper has been sufficiently heat- 
ed, the flame may be forced directly against the work to 
be soldered, the torch being held in one hand, the coj^per 
in the other, and the two worked in conjunction. This 
method permits of a pretty heavy job being done with a 
light soldering bit. Heat can be put into the copper as 
well as into the work, while the soldering operation is 
being carried on. 

Again, the work may be heated in the gasoline flame, 
then tinned with the copper. The entire surfaces to be 
covered with solder being given a perfect coating of 
solder, the requisite flux and the hot tinned copper being 
used for this purpose. After this, the parts of the work 
may be laid together, heated in the gas flame until the 
tinning solder melts, then pressed together and the neces- 

28 



Soldering. 

sary additions of solder, smootliinc;' and otherwise ])lacing 
the solder, hein.q" done with the copper. 

Another method of solderin.q" which is fre(|uentl\ 
used in the machine shop, is known as "sweating'.'" i'er- 
haps two pieces of hrass ha\e to l)e fastened together so as 
to leave an invisible joint. 1die workman will fit the pieces 
as perfectly as ])ossil)le. then he will wet the j^arts to come 
in c<intact. with soldering tlnid. and place the ])arts to- 
gether with a sheet of tin-foil between. The pieces are 
then pressed together and wired or otherwise held fast 
and heated until the tin-foil melts. After being allowed 
to cool, the pieces will be found fastened together so 
nicely that the joint is imperceptible to the eye if good 
fitting has been done. 

Another process, also sometimes called "sw'eating.'" 
consists of tinning separately the parts to be united, after 
which they are placed in contact with each other and 
firmly held in position while being heated, .\ftcr fusion 
of the solder, the object has its several pieces again 
brought as closely into contact as possible, either by tap- 
ping with a hammer, squeezing in a vise, by pressing to- 
gether bv hand, or by any means possible. Then, the 
work is left to cool, the superfluous solder removed, and 
a perfect solder joint is the result provided the manipula- 
tions have all been properly carried out. The method 
last described is commonly used in the machine shop for 
uniting for use during turning or planing ])rocesses, the 
parts of a ring or bushing which must be in two or more 
pieces after completion. The several parts are fitted to- 
gether, sweated into a continuous ring and then machined, 
after wdiich they are heated, whereupon the>- fall a]iart 
as soon as the solder melts. The solder is removed, by 
wiping the hot surfaces with a piece of soft cloth and then 

29 



Soldering. 

taking off the balance of the solder which is in the shape 
of a thin film, with a scraper. — Not the tool shown by 
Fig. 14, but a flat scraper as used by machinists on flat 
work where great truth of surface is required. 

There are several special operations in soldering, 
where special work has to be done, and, in ever}- instance, 
the specials are only adaptations of the ordinary process 
of soldering, to suit the particular work to be done. For 
instance : When a number of small or very small parts 
have to be soldered together in s-uch a manner that the 
soldering of one would cause the others to become un- 
soldered, it is customary to hold each and every piece by 
means of clips and screws, or by means of clamps or 
weights. For some kinds of work, something very differ- 
ent may be required to hold all the pieces, and, in some 
cases, it is necessary to put the parts in place one by one, 
and hold them there by means of calcined plaster, applied 
in the shape of cream. Each part is held in position until 
the plaster sets, after which they each will stay in place 
vmtil the solder can be applied. 

For small work, which has to be thus held in place, 
the soldering copper is frequently too large to get into the 
small corners between the several parts, and a good deal 
of trouble is frequently met with in getting the solder 
properly distributed. For work of this kind, the blow- 
pipe is the most desirable tool. The blow-torch may be 
substituted for the blow-pipe if desired, but the former 
tool enables the heat to be localized better than with the 
torch. In either case, apply the heat until the solder 
flows readily, then with a short bit of copper wire, fastened 
to the end of an iron vvire handle, the solder may readily 
be made to flow where it is needed. 

If the bit of thick copper wire on the end of an iron 
30 



Solderin 



J-^• 



wire handle is not at liand. a piece of copper wire may he 
used with i^dod results to ])oke the solder aroiuid into the 
joints, hut the troul)le with the soHd copper wire is that 
cop])er is a much hetter conductor of heat than the iron 
and the solid copper wire used as a small soldering bit, 
speedily becomes hot along its entire length and in so- 
doing takes so nuich heat away from the business end of 
the tool that it will not continue to melt the solder. 

The value of a soldering job frequently depends upon 
the use of a proper soldering fluid, and the stability of 
the soldered joint often depends largely thereupon. \Vhen 
acid is used there is little possibility that the joint will 
be permanent, luiless means are taken for removing the 
excess of acid. How^ever, this matter is much of a puz- 
zle to some very advanced engineers, some acid soldered 
joints lasting apparently as long as those soldered with- 
out the use of acid, other acid soldered joints coming to 
pieces very quickly after their making. The electrical 
people have solved the question of the durability of the 
acid soldering joint by prohibiting its use entirely in elec- 
trical work. 

One of the most handy soldering solutions consists 
of common resin dissolved in alcohol. This preparation 
makes a sort of varnish, which, when a])])lied to a siu'- 
face, soon parts with its alcohol, leaving a thin tilm of 
resin exactly where it will do the most good in soldering. 
Some good soldering solutions have borax dissolved in 
them ; others have some salammoniac ( muriate of am- 
monia) among their ingredients. This substance is the 
natural Hux for copper, and, owing to the presence of 
that metal in brass, it works pretty well in lluxing that 
alloy for soldering. 

The most common method of a|)pl\ing resin in sol- 

31 



Soldering. 

dering is to powder that material and apply it to the 
work by means of a swab consisting of a small tin or 
wooden handle to which a tuft of cotton or a few folds 
of cloth have been fastened. An ordinary cotTee mill is 
a desirable machine for pulverizing resin, also for borax. 
In the dry flux salammoniac may be ground up with the 
resin in almost any proportion from one of salammoniac 
to one hundred of resin up. In the liquid solution, the 
proportions may be the same, provided a liquid can be 
found which will carry both the resin and the salam- 
moniac. A solution of salammoniac and borax, or boracic 
acid, is much valued by some mechanics as a soldering 
fluid. 

Several ancient receipts for soldering fluids or acids 
call for "killed spirits of salt." Chemically, the solution 
is one of muriate of zinc. It may be readily prepared, as 
follows: Place three parts of hydrochloric (muriatic) 
acid and one part water in a lead, glass or wooden ves- 
sel, then add pieces of zinc as long as any action of the 
acid upon the zinc, can be seen. Some zinc remaining 
undissolved in the solution after standing for several 
hours is proof that no more zinc will be dissolved by the 
acid. Before declaring the operation completed, the fol- 
lowing test should be made to determine that there is suf- 
ficient water in the solution, without which the maximum 
quantity of zinc will not be dissolved by the acid. To 
make this test, remove a few drops of the solution to a 
clean vessel and place a bit of clean zinc in the liquid. 
Add water drop b}' drop, and observe if any action upon 
the zinc follows the addition of water to the solution. 
If such action commences, water should be added to the 
bulk of the solution until further addition does not have 
efifect upon the zinc. If, however, no action is observed 

32 



Soldering. 

in the test solution, the process may be declared finished, 
and the main sohition should be allowed to settle, after 
which the clear ])ortion is carefully poured off. llie 
sediment, consistini^ of zinc oxide and perhaps impurities 
contained in that metal, is not desirable in a working solu- 
tion for solderinii^. True, work can be done with dirty 
soldering acid or other fluid, but better work can be done 
with clean solutions, as well as surfaces, and tools. 



33 



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DRAFTING OF CAMS. 
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The laying out of cams is a serious problem unless you 
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This clears up many of the mysteries of thread cutting 
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_BRAZING AND SOLDERING. 
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'A complete course of instruction in all kinds of hard and 
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Turning and Boring Tapers. 

Drafting of Cams. Commutators. Thread Cutting. 

Wiritig a House. Others under way. 25cts each. 

T T T 

A MODERN BATTLESHIP. 

Shows and names every part. 28x42 inches. 

sects. 



